Stop Killing Lavender: The Ultimate Zone 8 Guide to Starting from Seed

Georgia Fields
Dec 2, 2025
3 min read

Yes, you can grow it in Georgia—but you have to break the rules.

If you live in Georgia, you’ve probably killed a lavender plant. Don’t feel bad; we all have. The humid air and heavy red clay of Zone 8 are the exact opposite of the dry, rocky Mediterranean cliffs where lavender evolves.

But growing lavender from seed here is possible, and frankly, it’s rewarding. The trick is understanding that in Georgia, we don't garden like the English—we garden for the humidity.

Since it is currently December, you are right on time to start this process. Here is every method you can use, ranked from "Most Reliable" to "Risky Business."

Step 1: Pick Your Fighter (The Seeds)

Before you start, check your seed packet. If it just says generic "English Lavender" (Lavandula angustifolia), put it back. In Georgia, that plant will likely rot by July.

The "Georgia-Proof" Varieties:

Phenomenal: The gold standard for the South. It handles humidity and heat better than almost any other variety.
Grosso: A classic French hybrid that is robust, fragrant, and tough.
Spanish Lavender: The ones with the "rabbit ear" flowers. They love the heat but are slightly less cold-hardy.

Step 2: Choose Your Sowing Method

Lavender seeds have a hard shell and a dormancy mechanism. They need a "winter" to wake up. Here are three ways to give them that winter.

Method A: The "Control Freak" (Indoor Lights)

Best for: Gardeners who want maximum control and have grow lights.

The Fridge (NOW): Place your seeds on a damp paper towel, seal them in a Ziploc bag, and put them in the refrigerator (not freezer) for 3–4 weeks. This is called "Cold Stratification."
Sow (Late Jan/Early Feb): Fill a seed tray with sterile seed starting mix. Dampen it.
Surface Sow: Sprinkle your chilled seeds on the surface. Press them down with your thumb. Do not cover them with soil. They need light to sprout.
Heat & Humidity: Cover with a plastic dome. Place under grow lights on a heat mat (70°F is ideal).
Wait: It takes 14–28 days to sprout. Be patient.

Method B: The "Winter Sowing" Hack (Recommended)

Best for: Gardeners who don't have indoor space/lights. This keeps the mess outside.

The Vessel: Take a translucent plastic milk jug. Poke drainage holes in the bottom. Cut it horizontally around the middle, leaving the handle attached as a "hinge."
The Soil: Fill the bottom half with 3–4 inches of damp potting soil.
The Sow (Jan 15–30): Sprinkle seeds on the surface and press them down firmly.
The Seal: Tape the jug shut with duct tape. Leave the cap OFF (this allows rain/snow to get in).
The Location: Place the jug outside in a sunny spot.
How it works: The jug acts as a mini-greenhouse. The seeds get the natural chill of the Georgia winter, but are protected from washing away. They will sprout naturally when the weather warms up in spring.

Method C: The "Gambler" (Direct Outdoor Sowing)

Best for: Risk-takers with excellent soil.

The Risk: Heavy Georgia rains can wash seeds away, and birds love to eat them.
The Timing: You must sow these in November/December so they get the winter chill naturally.
The Bed: You must clear all weeds and mix the top inch of soil with sand.
The Process: Scatter seeds on the surface. Walk on them to press them into the soil. Do not cover. Pray for gentle rains.

Step 3: The April Transplant (Banish the Clay)

Whether you started them indoors or in milk jugs, by mid-April (after the last frost), your seedlings are ready for the ground.

Do not dig a hole in the red clay and drop the plant in. That creates a clay "bathtub," and your lavender will drown.

Instead, Plant Up:

The Mix: Mix your native soil with 50% drainage material. Use coarse sand, Perlite, or pea gravel.
The Mound: Build a small hill of this soil mix about 6–8 inches high.
Planting: Plant your lavender at the very top of this mound. This ensures that when we get summer thunderstorms, gravity pulls the water away from the roots immediately.
The Gravel Mulch: Do not use pine straw or wood mulch near the stem (it holds too much moisture). Instead, use white gravel or stones around the base of the plant. This reflects sunlight (keeping the plant dry) and prevents stem rot.